Sunday, July 31, 2011

Smol smol

“Smol smol” – perhaps my favorite Krio phrase.

I ask my host grandma who wasn’t feeling well about her health & she replies, “Ah tel God tenki smol smol.” (Literally, “I tell God thank you small small” but a better translation is “well, I’m alive.”)

When I’m asked ten times a day about my sprained ankle by everything single person who sees me limping on the street, (whether I know them or not) the response is always “ee don bete smol  smol.”

When people ask how the Mende language learning is going – “smol smol.”

One could argue that the goal of training is to ease us into all things Sierra Leonean smol smol, or bit by bit. (It’s debatable how slow the integration process is in practice, but I think they try not to overwhelm us too much!) Still, I do have one personal saga about taking smol smol steps to get used to things in Salone. This is the story of why I am officially over my fear of arata (rodents).

It all began the first night at my host family’s house. The sound of rats scurrying across the ceiling was slightly unsettling, but at least there was a bed tent between myself and the arata. Who knew mosquito nets are actually very useful rodent guards? A few days later, I found a smol smol mouse dead on my floor. I shuddered, but acknowledged it wasn’t so bad. Much smaller than it sounds at night… My nine year old host sister Aminatta disposed of the creature for me.

I grew accustomed to listening to the arata at night. Just when I had finally gotten over my fear that the arata would eat through the mosquito net, I woke up to find a giant rat dying on my floor. Picture the rodents of unusual size (RUSes) from The Princess Bride, and you’ll have a good idea of how big this rat was. I approached it, thinking it was dead, but it began thrashing it’s tail about. I decided being a wimpy American who is not accustomed to giant arata was justified in this instance. (Smol smol steps, right?) I jumped over the rat and had my host grandma come sweep it out of the room for me.

A few days later, one of my Krio teachers gave me a tiny kitten that could “kill the arata.” I named the kitten Towei, which means pumpkin in Mende. However, I had my doubts about how effective the scrawny white kitten was going to be when it came to hunting RUSes. It turns out, I should have had more faith in Towei.

As I sat on my bed grading papers from summer school a few nights ago, I heard a crash near my window. I turned the beam of my headlamp towards the noise, and saw Towei wrestling with a rat that was the same size as her. (This time I’m really not exaggerating!) I wouldn’t say that she was winning the fight, but I had to admire her guts. I certainly hadn’t made any effort to fight off the rats up to that point. I realized I would have to get over my fear of the rats if I wanted my cat to survive long enough to be able to fight off future rodents. Taking a deep breath, I looked around my room for a suitable weapon. I settled on my umbrella and THWACK! Let me just say, that it is way harder than you would think to kill an arata with a blunt object. Their bones must be made of iron…Anyway, it was by far the most disturbing thing I’ve done here and I don’t recommend trying it! Nevertheless, at least I know I can survive alone against the arata when I get to site.

This afternoon, my host mom uncovered a rat nest in a box of old blankets in my bedroom. I didn’t see those rats, but she told me they were huge. Good, I’m glad a Sierra Leonean has confirmed my diagnosis on the unusual size of the rodents. At least they’ll make a good addition to tonight’s rice and sauce! I’m kidding. Not that I ever actually know what kind of “beef” is floating in my okra and palm oil…(No, I really am kidding!)


Saturday, July 16, 2011

First impressions: my village is perfect.


As the poda-poda (bus) rolls out of Makeni, I can hardly believe I’m finally going to see the place that will be my home for the next two years. After a few hours on a paved highway, we pull off onto a bumpy dirt road. The bus lurches and groans, but outside the windows the hilly wilderness of Salone is beautiful. After five hours of traveling, I reach Bo – the second largest city here. From there, it’s another 17 miles to my village, Sembehun.

Quickly, the crowded streets of Bo are replaced with rice fields and gently sloping hills. Along the street, I see a group of about 100 children dressed in grey school uniforms. So this is home, I think as the taxi pulls to a stop.

As my principal (who traveled with me from Makeni) and I get out of the car, my soon-to-be students begin signing a song they prepared for the occasion. To the rhythm of drums and young voices, we all proceed to the school – Kankaylay Islamis Junior Secondary – for a welcoming ceremony. After greeting my fellow teachers, community members, and sector chiefs, giving a quick speech in Krio, and listening to everyone’s words of welcome, I get to go visit my new house.  

My house is still being renovated, but I love it! I have papayas, oranges, avocados, and mangos growing in my backyard. There’s a small outdoor kitchen, space for a vegetable garden, and a well that’s not too far away.

Right now, I’m back in Makeni, but I can’t wait to move to my site in August!

A delayed post due to a faulty internet...


July 8, 2011

“Oakwom lakalo!” My Temne speaking neighbor tells me.
“wetin?” I reply Krio, Salone’s lingua franca.
“Di rain de pan kam”
Right on cue, a blissfully cool breeze sweeps across the compound and the rain begins to pound against the roof of my host family’s porch .
“Yu don col?” my neighbor asks.
“No I no col.”
“Eeee!” She surveys me skeptically   - probably wondering how it’s possible th at I’m never cold, even when the weather dips below 80 F. How can I possibly explain the concept of the cold that I’m used to?

I can hardly believe training is almost half over. I’ve loved exploring Makeni , spending time with my host family, and getting to know the other volunteers. On a typical morning, I wake up when the call to prayer sounds from the mosque across the street at 5:30am. I wait half an hour for the sun to rise, then go outside where my host grandma is just starting the fire. I quickly discovered that the morning is the best time to run here – not necessarily because of the heat, but because fewer children are awake before 7am. Fewer children means fewer shouts of “opoto opoto!” (white person) The kids here love foreigners and never get tired of yelling at any white person they see. At least the kids who live near me know my African name, so I’m greeted with calls of “Baliya!”, which is much better than opoto!

After running, it’s time for a bucket bath, a breakfast of fresh mangos or boiled plantains, then it’s off to training by 8 am. Training can be a bit tedious  at times, but we get to visit our sites this weekend. The principal from my school, which is called Kankaylay Islamic Junior Secondary School, is coming to Makeni on Friday to meet  me and take me  to my site. I’m stationed in a town called Sembehun 17, which is located 17 miles south of a city called Bo.  My host family is very disappointed  that I won’t be learning Temne or staying near Makeni, but I’m enjoying learning Mende and looking forward to seeing a new part of the country. (I do seriously doubt my ability to learn both Krio  & Mende anytime soon though…) I’ll be in my village from Sunday until Wednesday, then we go back to Makeni for  5 more weeks of training.

Okay, internet time is up so we go si bak! (Krio for see you later)